Wednesday 21 May 2014. Leaving Santorini

Goodbye to Santorini - a beautiful place

Up early at 7.30 to finish our packing. We only managed to squeeze in one bottle of wine, a Nykteri Reserva. We enjoyed our last breakfast - scrambled eggs and a pancake with maple syrup for me. I filled in a questionnaire and we said goodbye to the Hotel Volcano View. Our lift to the airport arrived at 9.15.

After checking in, we had to carry our bags through security after queuing for ages, and then went through another rather superficial security check. We went to wait on the roof terrace of the departure lounge and watched our plane come in. The Edelweiss flight took off and landed early. The only downside was the lunch selection - Hackbraten or Spaetzli. I ate neither.

On arrival in Zurich we waited ages for our bags, and then caught the train and bus home. It seemed rather surreal.

Tuesday 20 May

Up early again for a buffet breakfast and then we caught the crowded bus into Fira. It was warmer again today. We walked uphill through the narrow streets to the Archaeological Museum. They had many finds such as large amphorae and sculptures from as far back as the 17th Century BC. The detail on the vases and plates was very fine. I didn't get any photos there though.

Blue skies in Fira again

Then we had a coffee at a nearby cafe, and walked back past the souvenir shops but weren't tempted. Fira was full of tourists again, many of whom come on cruise ships. We stopped at the Pelican Cafe for a drink in the beautiful gardens. I had an orange juice. We just caught the shuttle bus in time.

At the hotel I did another painting of the view of the volcanic islands. Then we had a club sandwich and beer for lunch. Went back to our room to read. The sun is quite strong again today. Later we did a bit of packing, and went outside for a glass of wine. All the tables were laid for dinner and the live music later.

Our last evening at the hotel

However we decided to make a last trip into Fira. We caught the 7.30 bus which took a different route. We had dinner at the Pelican as we liked it earlier. Well-tended plants and jazz music playing in the background. We had aubergine dip and the ubiquitous fava, followed by salmon with a delicious lemon sauce, and a bottle of Assyrtiko white wine.

We had to wait for a taxi but arrived back at the hotel in time to sit outside for a coffee and to listen to the band - a female singer/keyboard player and a male drummer. We were slightly disturbed at 4 am by a drunken carouser outside.

Monday 19 May

A modern mosaic in the main square at Oia (or Ia)

Up early for a quiet breakfast and then to take the 9.15 shuttle bus into Fira. There we caught a public bus to Oia in the north of the island. The road wound through vineyards and fields of tomatoes, a Santorini feature.

Blue-domed churches are a feature of Ia

In Oia we strolled along the narrow streets, looking at churches and souvenir shops. I bought some jewellery. It's a beautiful village with several blue-domed churches. I am hoping to paint one.



We had lunch at Papagalos, a very nice place with quick service. We had a selection of Greek dips and then sea bream with capers and crisp vegetables. Delicious! We had a glass of white wine, another dry Assyrtiko aged in the barrel for six months.

A traditional windmill (minus its sails)

Then we explored further along the narrow paths and up and down many steps. The views were spectacular as usual. We had coffee in another small place, Skiza.


We caught the crowded bus back to Fira and got a taxi back to the hotel. It started raining and was quite cool. Our sweaters came in handy.


We had supper in the hotel restaurant, appetizers and apple pie with cinnamon. A quiet evening at the Volcano View. The Greek-American wedding party has left (apart from the grandfather).

Sunday 18 May

I sent a message via Facebook to Julie for her 60th birthday and later had a message saying thank you for the nightingale painting, the RSC voucher and all the cards from the family.

The church at Megalakori

After an early breakfast, we got the minibus with our guide, Christina, to visit the south of the island. We met several tour groups, many from China. We went to Megalakori, a traditional village with pistachio trees and caper bushes, and saw the rebuilding after an earthquake in 1956. Angelina Jolie once owned a house there.

Then we drove to Emporio with its castle and maze of streets, and houses which influenced the Austrian artist Hundertwasser. We walked through the very narrow streets and looked in an art studio. We didn't stop in Akrotiri where excavations have taken place; they are waiting for a new museum to open.

The small streets and steps in Emporio

We drove down to the yacht harbour at Vlikada and had a glass of wine by the black sandy beach.

Finally we visited a lighthouse at the most southerly point of Faros. Then we had lunch in the Panorama Taverna - meatballs, cheese and salad.

Richard at the southerly point of Santorini

We returned to our hotel and read. Later we took a taxi into Fira with another couple, disappointed with their honeymoon hotel next door. We had dinner at Kapari, recommended by Tanya. There was very good service and we had stuffed olives and tomato croquettes followed by Ancient Greek chicken with fennel and dill. We enjoyed a bottle of Nykteri 2013, aged in the barrel for six months - quick production!

Saturday 17 May

Cycladic pots in the Prehistoric Museum

After a bad night we were up a bit late for breakfast but it was calmer today and the waiters were friendly. Then we sat outside in the sun and wind, and I wrote postcards. We bought stamps at the mini-market across the road. Then we took the crowded shuttle bus into Fira.

First we visited the Prehistoric Museum and saw fossils from the Neolithic period, and many beautiful ceramics from the excavations at Akrotiri dating from the Cycladic period around 1700 BC. Very interesting.

In the old port of Fira where small boats depart

We walked up to the cablecar station and took a cabin down to the old port. The alternative transport was on donkeys. We had lunch in a seaside taverna. My calamari was rather chewy.

We ascended again and looked at the jewellery shops without luck. I bought a few more postcards. We took a taxi back to the hotel and read. It was quite cool and overcast.

At 7 pm we caught another taxi to the nearby village of Pyrgos and had dinner at Kallisti. The fish, dorade, was very nice but attracted the cats. We also had a delicious chocolate souffle. It was quite a cool evening.

Friday 16 May

A late start at breakfast and it was crowded - an invasion of very loud Americans here for a wedding. Then  we sat on the terrace and I painted a watercolour of the view. Then we prepared for the boat trip. The bus was late picking us up.

Rocky cliffs behind the new port

We got on the Aphrodite, a three-masted boat, at the new port, and sailed to the volcanic island of Nea Kameni. We disembarked and walked part of the way up the volcano on a very stony path. We learnt that it last erupted in 1950, and we could see there was black lava all over. Back on the boat we talked to a couple from Melbourne.

Another day, another sunset

Then we went further round the islands and stopped near a beach with hot springs, which a few people braved the cold sea to reach. We then moored near the island of Thirassia and had a buffet dinner in the boat - pork, Greek salad, tzatziki, potatoes and rice.

After sailing towards the clifftop village of Oia, we saw the sun set over the sea. A very leisurely day, and we got rather sunburnt.

Back to the hotel for a nightcap of red wine.

Thursday 15 May

The six-wine tasting platter at Santo wines - delicious

Up early for a very nice buffet breakfast and then meeting our Tui rep, Tanya, at 9 am. We are with a German group, naturally. Tanya explained all the trips we could go on, in rapid German. Afterwards she spoke to us in English and persuaded us to book a boat trip to the volcano and dinner on the boat at sunset, and a minibus trip to the picturesque south including excavations. Both with a special guide, Christina, who is Austrian but has lived in Santorini for 24 years.

Then we walked uphill beside a busy road to the Santo winery for a tour and tasting. We learnt about the six grape varieties in Santorini and that Santo is a cooperative which collects grapes from wineries all over the island. We saw the whole wine production process from pressing to fermentation and storage in barrels or bottles. Then in the bar we tasted three whites and three reds, with snacks. All very nice. We bought some Nykteri white wine and some plump capers, another island product, but weren't tempted by the fava yellow spilt peas as they are cheaper in Migros. Then we got a taxi back.

Dolmades at the hotel restaurant 

In the evening we took a stroll and had dinner at the hotel's Caldera Restaurant. I chose dolmades and pork tenderloin. We tried to access WiFi in Reception but couldn't get in. Had an early night. Our bed is very hard.

Wednesday 14 May, Arrival in Santorini

We were up at 4.30 for an early taxi to the airport. Our Edelweiss flight was punctual and we arrived at our hotel, Volcano View, quite quickly. But we had to wait hours for our room. The porter pointed out the superior rooms which were in any case full. Richard said he was the manager. Him manager?

One of the hotel pools with all sunbeds occupied

We had lunch overlooking the sea and volcano. Then we rested, and later lay by the pool. The water was freezing so we weren't tempted to swim. In the evening we took the shuttle bus into the capital,  Fira, and explored. There was a maze of narrow streets, very busy.

Sunset at Volcano View was spectacular

We visited a Greek Orthodox church and saw the tourist shops.


We had a very nice dinner at Parea, with fava and sea bass. Tried the Greek Sigalas white wine. There was a long wait for the return shuttle bus. The sunset view at our hotel was spectacular.

Wednesday 23 April, 31st wedding anniversary

At Palau March on our last day in Palma

It's also St. George's Day and Shakespeare's birthday today. We celebrated last night but Laura also gave us a card and Joan sent a card via Laura. We packed and checked out, then left Hotel Saratoga to visit another palace, the Palau March, near the cathedral.

Outside there were sculptures by Moore, Hepworth, Rodin and others. In the house were some late works by Dali and some very nice models of figures at the nativity and other scenes of life. We also saw some medieval maps of Europe.

In Jardi del Bisbe

We strolled in the direction of the hotel, calling in at the Jardi del Bisbe, and then stopped for lunch at an outdoor bar. We all had chicken and mango kebabs. There was a wandering band playing nice jazz tunes but I didn't give them money - maybe should have. We don't get that in Switzerland.

Back to the hotel to collect bags and get a taxi to the airport. We were very early. Laura said goodbye and we read until we could check in our bags. Then we waited ages in departures. The flight was fine, and we had a sandwich and drink. We got home safely and it wasn't too cold on our return to Thalwil.

Tuesday 22 April

At Macia Batle winery at Santa Maria, Majorca

We got up rather late and had breakfast together. Then we walked across town to the station where we bought tickets to Santa Maria on the Inca line.


We took a modern train through picturesque countryside. At the small town we soon found the Macia Batle winery.



First we toured the wine-making cellars and bottling rooms, and saw the display of colourful labels designed by their own artists. Then we were offered a wine tasting experience of ten white, rose and red wines. We liked the Blanc de Blancs and the Crianza wines best and bought 4 bottles.

Colourful wine labels are a feature of Macia Batle

We took the train back to Palma and had lunch at the Bar Central. There was lots of blossom blowing about causing everyone to sneeze.


We returned to the hotel for a rest. In the evening we went to visit the nearby modern art museum Es Baluard, where we saw works by Mallorcan artists, and then tried to get a drink in the lounge bar outside. The service was terrible.

Rather breezy on the roof overlooking the sea front

We then walked to Simply Fosh for a pre-anniversary dinner. We had a 4 course seasonal meal with a complimentary glass of cava and some white wine. It was all delicious. It was a long walk back to the hotel again.

Monday 21 April, Easter Monday

The train to Soller went through the Tramuntana mountains

Today we decided to take the train to Soller on the northwest coast. After breakfast we walked in the sun to the station for the special train. There was a long queue for tickets and then another wait for the next train. But we did get good seats and enjoyed the view on the ride through olive groves, citrus trees and mountains.

Delicious orange salad at Can Gato

In Soller we found Can Gato, a nice place for lunch down a narrow street. We sat in a fragrant courtyard and had orange salad and a cheese and ham platter, plus a glass of sangria.

Then we walked further to an art museum, Can Prunero, with varied works of modern art. We went back to the main square for coffee and looked round the elaborate church. The station also had an art exhibition of works by Picasso and Miro.

At Abaco, a lovely bar

We took the crowded train back to Palma. Later we found Abaco, a bar said to be one of the 'nicest places in the world' and had a glass of wine.

Then we found a nearby La Taperia and had a delicious dinner of several shared dishes. We walked back to the hotel feeling rather tired.

Sunday 20 April, Easter Sunday

Different architectural styles in Palma

We exchanged Easter eggs at breakfast. The dining room was very full. I had my usual cereal, fruit, orange juice, boiled egg and bread rolls.

The sun came out as we walked along the path in front of the cathedral and into another part of the old city.

We found the Banyas Arabs or Arab Baths. The bath house was small but had a nice garden with citrus trees.

Laura at Banya Arabs

Overlooking the port and cathedral

We wandered through the maze of streets to a cafe for Easter cakes (enseimada) and coffee. Then we explored further to Plaza Mayor and Plaza Weyler. There were shops open and some interesting architecture in Modernista styles.

Back at the hotel Laura and I sat in the courtyard in the sun for a while. In the evening we had booked dinner at Can Eduardo, a nearby seafood restaurant.


Dinner by the harbour was very pleasant. We had different starters and I had sea bass and the others had a lobster and rice soup. For dessert we shared crema catalana. At the hotel we played Town and Country.

Saturday 19 April

The west door was very ornate

Tall Gothic pillars inside the cathedral

A late buffet breakfast at the Hotel Saratoga. I had cereal, fruit, boiled egg, bread rolls and coffee. Then we set off to walk to the cathedral via the shops where Laura bought a few things quite cheaply.

On the wall overlooking the sea

The cathedral or Le Seu is set on a hill above the port and is one of the tallest in Europe. Inside we admired the tall Gothic columns, the mural by Barcelo of the Feeding of the Five Thousand and the Gaudi modifications to lighten the chancel and focus on  the altar. The stained glass was also beautiful.

Then we entered the Palau or former Royal Palace, now a museum. We went for lunch to Olas. We had strawberry gazpacho and tapas. A very friendly place.

Back to the hotel to rest. Laura changed rooms. The sun went in so we didn't try the pool. We strolled through the old streets to the port, which was enclosed by a fence, and we found another nice bar, Ambigu, for wine and small tapas choices.

Friday 18 April, Good Friday

Passeig de Born, a wide tree-lined street

We left Switzerland in rain and arrived in Palma in sun. The taxi ride to Hotel Saratoga took about 10 minutes. Nice room but furnishings rather flimsy. We explored the town on foot. Close to sea and squares. Some shops open even on a bank holiday. We saw some people still in costume after the parade for Setmana Santa.

We had a glass of white wine in the square and dinner in a tapas bar. We shared five tapas dishes and each had different fish. Tomato and garlic were prominent.

Later Laura arrived and has a room near ours.

Thursday 17 April 2014

Getting ready for our Easter holiday in Palma, Majorca. We have checked in our Swiss flight, ordered currency, bought some last-minute essentials and studied the guide book. Hoping for warm sunny weather when we arrive there.