Wednesday 21 May 2014. Leaving Santorini

Goodbye to Santorini - a beautiful place

Up early at 7.30 to finish our packing. We only managed to squeeze in one bottle of wine, a Nykteri Reserva. We enjoyed our last breakfast - scrambled eggs and a pancake with maple syrup for me. I filled in a questionnaire and we said goodbye to the Hotel Volcano View. Our lift to the airport arrived at 9.15.

After checking in, we had to carry our bags through security after queuing for ages, and then went through another rather superficial security check. We went to wait on the roof terrace of the departure lounge and watched our plane come in. The Edelweiss flight took off and landed early. The only downside was the lunch selection - Hackbraten or Spaetzli. I ate neither.

On arrival in Zurich we waited ages for our bags, and then caught the train and bus home. It seemed rather surreal.

Tuesday 20 May

Up early again for a buffet breakfast and then we caught the crowded bus into Fira. It was warmer again today. We walked uphill through the narrow streets to the Archaeological Museum. They had many finds such as large amphorae and sculptures from as far back as the 17th Century BC. The detail on the vases and plates was very fine. I didn't get any photos there though.

Blue skies in Fira again

Then we had a coffee at a nearby cafe, and walked back past the souvenir shops but weren't tempted. Fira was full of tourists again, many of whom come on cruise ships. We stopped at the Pelican Cafe for a drink in the beautiful gardens. I had an orange juice. We just caught the shuttle bus in time.

At the hotel I did another painting of the view of the volcanic islands. Then we had a club sandwich and beer for lunch. Went back to our room to read. The sun is quite strong again today. Later we did a bit of packing, and went outside for a glass of wine. All the tables were laid for dinner and the live music later.

Our last evening at the hotel

However we decided to make a last trip into Fira. We caught the 7.30 bus which took a different route. We had dinner at the Pelican as we liked it earlier. Well-tended plants and jazz music playing in the background. We had aubergine dip and the ubiquitous fava, followed by salmon with a delicious lemon sauce, and a bottle of Assyrtiko white wine.

We had to wait for a taxi but arrived back at the hotel in time to sit outside for a coffee and to listen to the band - a female singer/keyboard player and a male drummer. We were slightly disturbed at 4 am by a drunken carouser outside.

Monday 19 May

A modern mosaic in the main square at Oia (or Ia)

Up early for a quiet breakfast and then to take the 9.15 shuttle bus into Fira. There we caught a public bus to Oia in the north of the island. The road wound through vineyards and fields of tomatoes, a Santorini feature.

Blue-domed churches are a feature of Ia

In Oia we strolled along the narrow streets, looking at churches and souvenir shops. I bought some jewellery. It's a beautiful village with several blue-domed churches. I am hoping to paint one.



We had lunch at Papagalos, a very nice place with quick service. We had a selection of Greek dips and then sea bream with capers and crisp vegetables. Delicious! We had a glass of white wine, another dry Assyrtiko aged in the barrel for six months.

A traditional windmill (minus its sails)

Then we explored further along the narrow paths and up and down many steps. The views were spectacular as usual. We had coffee in another small place, Skiza.


We caught the crowded bus back to Fira and got a taxi back to the hotel. It started raining and was quite cool. Our sweaters came in handy.


We had supper in the hotel restaurant, appetizers and apple pie with cinnamon. A quiet evening at the Volcano View. The Greek-American wedding party has left (apart from the grandfather).

Sunday 18 May

I sent a message via Facebook to Julie for her 60th birthday and later had a message saying thank you for the nightingale painting, the RSC voucher and all the cards from the family.

The church at Megalakori

After an early breakfast, we got the minibus with our guide, Christina, to visit the south of the island. We met several tour groups, many from China. We went to Megalakori, a traditional village with pistachio trees and caper bushes, and saw the rebuilding after an earthquake in 1956. Angelina Jolie once owned a house there.

Then we drove to Emporio with its castle and maze of streets, and houses which influenced the Austrian artist Hundertwasser. We walked through the very narrow streets and looked in an art studio. We didn't stop in Akrotiri where excavations have taken place; they are waiting for a new museum to open.

The small streets and steps in Emporio

We drove down to the yacht harbour at Vlikada and had a glass of wine by the black sandy beach.

Finally we visited a lighthouse at the most southerly point of Faros. Then we had lunch in the Panorama Taverna - meatballs, cheese and salad.

Richard at the southerly point of Santorini

We returned to our hotel and read. Later we took a taxi into Fira with another couple, disappointed with their honeymoon hotel next door. We had dinner at Kapari, recommended by Tanya. There was very good service and we had stuffed olives and tomato croquettes followed by Ancient Greek chicken with fennel and dill. We enjoyed a bottle of Nykteri 2013, aged in the barrel for six months - quick production!

Saturday 17 May

Cycladic pots in the Prehistoric Museum

After a bad night we were up a bit late for breakfast but it was calmer today and the waiters were friendly. Then we sat outside in the sun and wind, and I wrote postcards. We bought stamps at the mini-market across the road. Then we took the crowded shuttle bus into Fira.

First we visited the Prehistoric Museum and saw fossils from the Neolithic period, and many beautiful ceramics from the excavations at Akrotiri dating from the Cycladic period around 1700 BC. Very interesting.

In the old port of Fira where small boats depart

We walked up to the cablecar station and took a cabin down to the old port. The alternative transport was on donkeys. We had lunch in a seaside taverna. My calamari was rather chewy.

We ascended again and looked at the jewellery shops without luck. I bought a few more postcards. We took a taxi back to the hotel and read. It was quite cool and overcast.

At 7 pm we caught another taxi to the nearby village of Pyrgos and had dinner at Kallisti. The fish, dorade, was very nice but attracted the cats. We also had a delicious chocolate souffle. It was quite a cool evening.

Friday 16 May

A late start at breakfast and it was crowded - an invasion of very loud Americans here for a wedding. Then  we sat on the terrace and I painted a watercolour of the view. Then we prepared for the boat trip. The bus was late picking us up.

Rocky cliffs behind the new port

We got on the Aphrodite, a three-masted boat, at the new port, and sailed to the volcanic island of Nea Kameni. We disembarked and walked part of the way up the volcano on a very stony path. We learnt that it last erupted in 1950, and we could see there was black lava all over. Back on the boat we talked to a couple from Melbourne.

Another day, another sunset

Then we went further round the islands and stopped near a beach with hot springs, which a few people braved the cold sea to reach. We then moored near the island of Thirassia and had a buffet dinner in the boat - pork, Greek salad, tzatziki, potatoes and rice.

After sailing towards the clifftop village of Oia, we saw the sun set over the sea. A very leisurely day, and we got rather sunburnt.

Back to the hotel for a nightcap of red wine.

Thursday 15 May

The six-wine tasting platter at Santo wines - delicious

Up early for a very nice buffet breakfast and then meeting our Tui rep, Tanya, at 9 am. We are with a German group, naturally. Tanya explained all the trips we could go on, in rapid German. Afterwards she spoke to us in English and persuaded us to book a boat trip to the volcano and dinner on the boat at sunset, and a minibus trip to the picturesque south including excavations. Both with a special guide, Christina, who is Austrian but has lived in Santorini for 24 years.

Then we walked uphill beside a busy road to the Santo winery for a tour and tasting. We learnt about the six grape varieties in Santorini and that Santo is a cooperative which collects grapes from wineries all over the island. We saw the whole wine production process from pressing to fermentation and storage in barrels or bottles. Then in the bar we tasted three whites and three reds, with snacks. All very nice. We bought some Nykteri white wine and some plump capers, another island product, but weren't tempted by the fava yellow spilt peas as they are cheaper in Migros. Then we got a taxi back.

Dolmades at the hotel restaurant 

In the evening we took a stroll and had dinner at the hotel's Caldera Restaurant. I chose dolmades and pork tenderloin. We tried to access WiFi in Reception but couldn't get in. Had an early night. Our bed is very hard.

Wednesday 14 May, Arrival in Santorini

We were up at 4.30 for an early taxi to the airport. Our Edelweiss flight was punctual and we arrived at our hotel, Volcano View, quite quickly. But we had to wait hours for our room. The porter pointed out the superior rooms which were in any case full. Richard said he was the manager. Him manager?

One of the hotel pools with all sunbeds occupied

We had lunch overlooking the sea and volcano. Then we rested, and later lay by the pool. The water was freezing so we weren't tempted to swim. In the evening we took the shuttle bus into the capital,  Fira, and explored. There was a maze of narrow streets, very busy.

Sunset at Volcano View was spectacular

We visited a Greek Orthodox church and saw the tourist shops.


We had a very nice dinner at Parea, with fava and sea bass. Tried the Greek Sigalas white wine. There was a long wait for the return shuttle bus. The sunset view at our hotel was spectacular.